![]() ![]() Time is worth money too, and I was just making a suggestion for future readers of this thread that you created on a public forum. Times sure have changed!įirst off, I'm not your amigo, but whatever. WOW! Good for you for that 'fix' and for sharing it forward! I miss the olden days of 'shade tree mechanics' with my Dad! He taught me so much about how to do some good 'quick fixes' to get me home in the middle of the night! I wished the same for my own son when he got into his car driving years, but the best I could do was buy him the code testing machine for his truck and to make certain that he knew how to change his own oil & filter and could change a tire. When factory original is not an option, common sense and a little ingenuity can save the day. So,if any fellow 4.7 Dak fans run into this same issue, I hope my solution might help alleviate some frustration. Still holding strong as of this writing, 3 weeks later. No leak! So I added fluids as needed til I was at hot operating level, gave it one last look, and took it for a 15 mile test drive. I reinstalled the bracket bolts and hoses, popped the serpentine back on and the rest of the various stuff that had to be moved, filled the red to the cold mark and let er' rip. I was rewards with a satisfying, orgasmic POP, as the flange slid in, and supported itself on the new seals. I then put the rings on the steps, lubed them up with silicon grease, lined them up on the port and gave a good push. I then proceeded to my small bench grinder and marked a full turn on the case, and started flattening down the OD of the rings. And the second step fit the same "mandrel" with just a touch of stretch. I figured a run to the parts store would be a waste of fuel and time.Īs it turned out, the first step on the flange was the exact diameter as a 45 Colt cartridge case.270. It was the closet I had, and this was from 3, complete, standard kits. I found two rings with the proper ID easy enough, but the ODss were to big. The logical choice was to eliminate the port face internal seal, and rely on the middle and outside 360° seals. So, I decided a new system needed designed. I tried crafting a similar unit, with various materials, however, the fit had to be plumb perfect. The original seal was formed to fit the steps on the flange, sealing at the end of the port, on the face, again on the inside of the port wall, and again at the outside edge of the port. Just a side bracket to hold the rez in place after the friction seal was accomplished. Its a poor design, IMHO, consisting of a short, stepped flange on the rez, that the factory seal slips over and then pushed into the pump port, creating a straight friction seal. However the configuration of the flange presented a rater unique challenge in fabbing up anything resembling OEM. Well being a guy that specializes in fixing leaks, I took door #2. Its buy the whole unit, 400 bucks new, or try and make your own seal. Thing is, they don't sell that seal, or the resovoir, as a desperate unit. ![]() It was the seal between the resovoir and pump body. ![]() The issue turned out to be "simple" enough. I started leaving puddles and using fluid here a bit back, and finally became annoyed enough to dive in. ![]()
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